Nymphing is not my specialty...but I do love to attempt it, especially when sight fishing. If you get out on the Breeches on a nice day down near the Run, by Allenberry, or on some of the spots where it really widens and the water shallows you will have a great chance at being able to sight fish (especially if it hasn't rained in quite a bit). On those days, I used to love fishing below the Run, not only because my fish count went up, but because as you walk by the Run, you would see about 10 guys over the age of 60 all nymphing the shallow parts of the run. The best part is that every time I would go, it would be the same guys going after those same fish! There were 2-3 huge 'Bows and Browns, I mean like 22"+ that would cruise the Run and these guys just wanted to be able to tell a story about how they held one of them just once in their lives off of some old nymph they tied ages ago. I'm not sure but I feel as if very few of these men have actually caught one of those fish (who they probably have silly names for like Bubba or something). I, for one, have hit one of the big 'Bows in the mouth with just about every nymph in my fly box...no such luck as to bring it in. I did false hook one of the Browns which was about 19" and was able to bring him in but a false hook isn't something to really be proud of, it's really just luck.
So, I for one, do not prefer nymphs mainly because I don't feel as if I know enough about nymphing and honestly, I'd prefer to watch a trout swim into sight to sip down a nice dry. In order to nymph you need to know a few techniques. The first method is called the tight-line technique, where really none of your fly line is touching the water, just your tippet and nymph (most of the time this requires being able to see the fish your presenting to). This technique requires a fly that will sink, one with weight (like a bead-head, a drop shot on your line, or one with lead wire). The second is commonly called the floating technique, this is similar to dry fly fishing, where your trying to imitate a nymph that has been jarred loose from its place on the bottom and somehow got air trapped on it keeping it on the surface (easy target). Both depend on conditions and preference. A third, less commonly used technique is the tandem flies, one dry, one wet (nymph or pupa). They are usually both of the same species imitating a hatched fly and unhatched.
In order to present your fly, like most fly presentations, you want to drift your fly down to the fish. Nymphs don't usually swim upstream, they more commonly crawl, very slowly (but most of the time, they drift). For tight-line, you want your line to remain "tight" so that you feel the bite immediately and can set the hook. For all techniques, you want to drift in areas fish most commonly hang out such as behind rocks, fallen trees, or other obstacles that break the speed of the water (trout don't like expending energy when they don't need to, they'd rather be lazy and let the food come to them).
One last thing that goes along with nymphing is the use of indicators. Some say its cheating like using a bobber but others swear nymphing would be impossible without them. I'm neutral, I have both used and not used indicators and had the same result of catching a fish.
Hope this has helped for those of you (of which I know there are sooo many) that are on the fence of whether to nymph or not...
Tight Lines...Morgan
Showing posts with label Techniques. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Techniques. Show all posts
Thursday, December 2, 2010
Sunday, November 21, 2010
It's All About the Cast
Casting a fly rod looked pretty easy at first, I thought I could teach myself pretty quickly since I had been fishing my whole life. I grabbed my new rod, a fly, a coffee can, and went down to the lacrosse practice fields. I set the can out in front of me, a good 30 ft away and began to whip my line back and forth like I'd seen my friend do. All I got out of it was a tangled line and a hook in the shoulder. So, I packed up, went back to the dorm, and started to do my research. I watched Youtube videos, picked up The Orvis Fly Fishing Guide from the local bookstore as well as Fly Fisherman's Primer (of which I'll probably use to help explain since the authors seem to say it best), and sat down with my buddy to learn the mechanics. It turns out I had the right idea, finding an open space to practice and the coffee can to aim for as a target, but I had no idea HOW to cast. I can't stress enough how important your cast is when it comes to catching a fish. With some species, like Bonefish, it is a huge percentage of what actually gets the fish to even give your fly the time of day.
There are many types of casts and they all depend on your own style, what scenario your in, and what type of fly fishing your doing. When I cast growing up (with a spinning rod) I usually did it side-arm unless it was with a saltwater surf rod which I usually cast overhand. So, when I started fly fishing, I got into a bad habit of casting side arm. This technique isn't totally wrong, it works well given the proper situation (you have a low lying branch directly above you for example). It was good for me to learn because I have used it quite a bit now with some of the large trees that hang over the Breeches but, it did take me awhile to break the habit and learn the "proper" technique or basic fly cast. Its actually quite easy, with some practice and proper instruction. I'm hoping this post gives just that, the proper instruction.
Lets start with the physics behind the cast. The fly rod, because of its nature, always wants to be straight. When you move the fly rod against the weight of the loaded fly line, leader, and fly, the rod flexes but the rod wants to straighten back out. When you pull the rod towards you, its called the backcast, this is generally how you begin your cast. During the backcast, the fly rod arcs forward. But, when you stop the movement of the rod behind you, the rod straightens out. When the line, leader, and fly catch up and straighten out on their plane behind you, the power of your backcast is transferred from the rod into the line. As the line is moving backward or "unrolling" it forms a loop. The bend in the loop is where the energy is being transferred. Before the loop completely unrolls, you begin your forward cast. When you cast forward, the rod bends toward your rear thus creating more energy. As before, when your rod stops in front of you, it straightens out and your loop in your line is going forward. The energy in the loop pulls the line forward, unrolls it, and lays it out on the water with your fly at the end...boom.
The basic fly cast...Your line will always move on the plane of movement of the tip of your rod. This is why it is important to keep your rod on a level plane parallel to the water (in most cases). If you think of a clock, you see the face and the dashes every 5 minutes right? A good basic fly cast has the backcast stopping abruptly at the 11 o'clock position and the forward cast stopping abruptly at the 1 o'clock position (2 hours apart). How do you know when to begin your backcast or forward cast? The backcast is generally your first part of the cast, where you pick the line up off the water or start stripping (pulling) line off your reel. Your backcast goes until your loop is just about to totally unroll behind you and then you begin your forward cast. You can do this back and forth over and over until you feel as if your forward cast will perfectly unroll your line to present your fly in the best way possible. This is called "False Casting". It becomes more useful later in the Double Haul cast but is good for getting the best feeling cast for you without disturbing the fish. You always want to keep the rod on the same line above you, not moving it in a circular motion. Another important aspect of the basic fly cast that I almost forgot to mention is what your other hand does! That is, holding the line. You want to strip off about 20 ft of line give or take a few feet and as your stripping the line, begin to false cast. As your stripping the line off the reel, you are false casting with your rod hand, usually dominant hand. The hand you are stripping the line out with is obviously the other hand. This is how you maintain your line and lengthen your casts, by holding more line in your hand to allow to be pulled or shot through the eyes of the rod by the energy of your unrolling cast, this is called "shooting" your line. This is also the hand you strip your line back in with when using wet flies. It simply gives you more control.
NOTE: When it comes to holding the rod someone once told me the best way to visualize the proper grip, its best to grip it as if your holding a paint brush full of paint on the tip. Casting it is as if you are attempting to splatter the paint all over one area of a wall. Pretty good eh?
So...heres a preview of the basic fly cast written out by Paul N. Fling and Donald L. Puterbaugh in their book Fly Fisherman's Primer...it touches on everything you need to know aka stuff I missed:
There are many types of casts and they all depend on your own style, what scenario your in, and what type of fly fishing your doing. When I cast growing up (with a spinning rod) I usually did it side-arm unless it was with a saltwater surf rod which I usually cast overhand. So, when I started fly fishing, I got into a bad habit of casting side arm. This technique isn't totally wrong, it works well given the proper situation (you have a low lying branch directly above you for example). It was good for me to learn because I have used it quite a bit now with some of the large trees that hang over the Breeches but, it did take me awhile to break the habit and learn the "proper" technique or basic fly cast. Its actually quite easy, with some practice and proper instruction. I'm hoping this post gives just that, the proper instruction.
Lets start with the physics behind the cast. The fly rod, because of its nature, always wants to be straight. When you move the fly rod against the weight of the loaded fly line, leader, and fly, the rod flexes but the rod wants to straighten back out. When you pull the rod towards you, its called the backcast, this is generally how you begin your cast. During the backcast, the fly rod arcs forward. But, when you stop the movement of the rod behind you, the rod straightens out. When the line, leader, and fly catch up and straighten out on their plane behind you, the power of your backcast is transferred from the rod into the line. As the line is moving backward or "unrolling" it forms a loop. The bend in the loop is where the energy is being transferred. Before the loop completely unrolls, you begin your forward cast. When you cast forward, the rod bends toward your rear thus creating more energy. As before, when your rod stops in front of you, it straightens out and your loop in your line is going forward. The energy in the loop pulls the line forward, unrolls it, and lays it out on the water with your fly at the end...boom.
The basic fly cast...Your line will always move on the plane of movement of the tip of your rod. This is why it is important to keep your rod on a level plane parallel to the water (in most cases). If you think of a clock, you see the face and the dashes every 5 minutes right? A good basic fly cast has the backcast stopping abruptly at the 11 o'clock position and the forward cast stopping abruptly at the 1 o'clock position (2 hours apart). How do you know when to begin your backcast or forward cast? The backcast is generally your first part of the cast, where you pick the line up off the water or start stripping (pulling) line off your reel. Your backcast goes until your loop is just about to totally unroll behind you and then you begin your forward cast. You can do this back and forth over and over until you feel as if your forward cast will perfectly unroll your line to present your fly in the best way possible. This is called "False Casting". It becomes more useful later in the Double Haul cast but is good for getting the best feeling cast for you without disturbing the fish. You always want to keep the rod on the same line above you, not moving it in a circular motion. Another important aspect of the basic fly cast that I almost forgot to mention is what your other hand does! That is, holding the line. You want to strip off about 20 ft of line give or take a few feet and as your stripping the line, begin to false cast. As your stripping the line off the reel, you are false casting with your rod hand, usually dominant hand. The hand you are stripping the line out with is obviously the other hand. This is how you maintain your line and lengthen your casts, by holding more line in your hand to allow to be pulled or shot through the eyes of the rod by the energy of your unrolling cast, this is called "shooting" your line. This is also the hand you strip your line back in with when using wet flies. It simply gives you more control.
NOTE: When it comes to holding the rod someone once told me the best way to visualize the proper grip, its best to grip it as if your holding a paint brush full of paint on the tip. Casting it is as if you are attempting to splatter the paint all over one area of a wall. Pretty good eh?
So...heres a preview of the basic fly cast written out by Paul N. Fling and Donald L. Puterbaugh in their book Fly Fisherman's Primer...it touches on everything you need to know aka stuff I missed:
- Hold the rod securely, but loosely. ( remember, like a loaded paint brush)
- Strip off line from the reel.
- Stand with your feet shoulder width apart, right toe even with left heel.
- Face in the direction of the forward cast.
- Pull off enough extra line so you can hold it in your left hand while extending the casting arm to its full length.
- Pell reel quickly and smoothly to shoulder as left hand pulls extra line from the reel and drops to your side (assuming your right handed). Don't allow any wrist movement in the rod hand until the arm demands it.
- Stop rod movement with the rod at the 11 o'clock position.
- Look over your shoulder (to see your backcast).
- When tip of line enters the loop, begin forward cast.
- Move reel forward quickly and smoothly by straightening out your arm.
- Don't allow any wrist movement in the rod hand until the arm demands it.
- Stop rod movement with the rod at the 1 o'clock position.
- Repeat to false cast, adding line at the completion of each forward cast until desired line length is reached.
Now, on to my favorite cast, one that is great for long casts and is the basic cast for saltwater. It's called the Double Haul. A lot of fly fisherman regard the ability to double haul as evidence of someone who is a good fly caster (thats actually someone who can spey cast...they are the great casters) but it is really just another cast to add to your arsenal. It is used in a special situation just like the Side Cast. The situation is simple, when you need to cast further. It enables you to put more energy into the cast thus shooting more line out of your rod to lay out onto the water a greater distance. As you begin your normal basic cast, you begin with your backcast. As the line begins to reach to end of its loop behind you, you begin your forward cast but at the same time, with your line hand, pull across your body with the line in a quick yanking motion. This puts more energy into the line. Then as your forward cast loop unrolls, let some line shoot out, lengthening your line. Still maintain a hold on the line, do not totally let it go. Grip it again as you begin your backcast and give it another quick yank, letting go of the line to shoot some more out behind you. As the loop begins to unroll, repeat until you have your desired length, this continually charges the line with every cast since you need more energy to move or shoot more line. Once finished or at desired length, shoot your line in front of you. This cast is not only great for long distances but for powering through tough winds.
NOTE: Make sure you always have enough clearance behind and in front of you for casts, spending time getting a fly out of a tree can really put a damper on your attempt at a fish.
The last cast I want to go over just to give you the three you really need to know for now, at least as a beginner, is the Roll Cast. I love the roll cast, it saved me a lot of frustration on the Breeches. Its really quite simple and can, depending on where you fish, be used often. This cast is used when you have trees or an obstacle behind you hindering your backcast. Start with your line in the water. Grab the line with your line hand and pull in slack. At the same time, raise your rod tip to the 11 o'clock position. You notice that the time begins to be pulled along the water towards you, the resistance of the water is loading the lines energy for you. With a quick snap of the wrist, move the rod forward and down. The line will then continue to move towards you but then start to unroll away from you. Boom.
NOTE: Make sure you always have enough clearance behind and in front of you for casts, spending time getting a fly out of a tree can really put a damper on your attempt at a fish.
The last cast I want to go over just to give you the three you really need to know for now, at least as a beginner, is the Roll Cast. I love the roll cast, it saved me a lot of frustration on the Breeches. Its really quite simple and can, depending on where you fish, be used often. This cast is used when you have trees or an obstacle behind you hindering your backcast. Start with your line in the water. Grab the line with your line hand and pull in slack. At the same time, raise your rod tip to the 11 o'clock position. You notice that the time begins to be pulled along the water towards you, the resistance of the water is loading the lines energy for you. With a quick snap of the wrist, move the rod forward and down. The line will then continue to move towards you but then start to unroll away from you. Boom.
I can't stress enough how important it is to continue to read and keep up to date with modern techniques when it not only comes to casting but fly fishing in general (thats probably why my coffee table is full of half a dozen fly fishing magazine subscriptions and my computer is full of fly fishing website bookmarks).
Thanks to Z and Mike B for showing their great casting technique on the Breeches.
Tight Lines...Morgan
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
A Sport Within a Sport Within a Sport...Kayak Fly Fishing
I had my first experience of fly fishing from a kayak last week in Luce Creek, off the Severn River and the Chesapeake Bay. I used my St. Croix 8 wt./G. Loomis Venture 7 reel combo. Although I didn't have any luck on the fly (due to the fact it was 50 degrees and I was wearing full clothing on a kayak probably too small for my body weight), needless to say, I didn't feel comfortable "rocking the boat" with my double hauls. So, I switched to my Shakespeare Ugly Stik bay rod and threw on a Bomber plug and ended up pulling in 16" and 16.5" Stripers. My first attempt (and only up to this point) wasn't the most successful but it did inspire me. Kayak fishing is among the most stealthy of ways to go about sneaking up on a fish so I had to learn more about being not only successful but a little more graceful as well. Upon arriving home, I decided to crack open a few of my magazines, books, and searched the interweb for some more information on fly fishing from a kayak. I know one of my magazines had an article in it about the subject but, since the wife and I just recently moved, I can't seem to find it...will update that later if new information is found or some important stuff is left out.
So, I'll start out with the obvious, kayak fly fishing is MOSTLY a saltwater deal. The guys and I in college did spend a lot of time floating the Breeches on tubes and even kayaks. I don't see why you couldn't do so (in a kayak) with your rod and a pack. Or even hop into a kayak at a nice bass pond to reach that section of reeds on the other side that night after night you hear bucketmouth-sized bass whomp on some frogs. Its all possible, but I'm going to focus primarily on the saltwater aspect.
While out on the water and even after the fact, I recognized my lack of preparation and proper equipment*. I think the most important piece of equipment you could have with you (other than the obvious...kayak, rod, reel, flies, polarized sunglasses) is a rod holder. Let me tell you, it is so hard to try and hold on to your rod while paddling or vise versa! So on that note, I'd also suggest investing in a paddle holder or even just simply making one. I'm a frugal person myself, ask my wife, I think it is very important to do your research before a purchase. I also have a lot of respect for people that do a simple Google search and find out a way to make something yourself. I'll add some posts about DIY (do it yourself) stuff in the future. As a matter of fact, heres a treat since its the giving season... http://www.mademan.com/mm/make-kayak-paddle-holder.html When it comes to rod holders, they are much easier to purchase than make, and really, you can find a nice holder for a good price. Bass Pro has an awesome selection. They are easy to mount and really get the job done. Some other things you may want to bring with you include a net, cooler, and a compact pack (that also has room for all your necessities (flies, clippers, etc.). I honestly only had my phone, boaters license, life vest, rod, paddle, and pack with me...didn't think this through. Don't forget your life vest, I can't emphasize enough how important safety is, especially on a little floating boat that seems to have an inner goal of rocking you off. A lot of kayaks now have storage areas built into the hull, great for filling with ice to hold your fish and a few cold drinks. If catch and release is the name of your game, that storage area becomes even more handy and is great for packs, bags, and extra equipment. If you don't have a kayak holder, I've heard of people using milk crates or just plain tackle bags that can be strapped down with bungee cords (another necessity). Some other optional stuff, depending on your target species and geological location, include and are not limited to, a gaff, outriggers, duct tape, an anchor, sunblock, a hat, and a larger rod holder for more than one rod.
*Note: This section is written assuming you don't have one of the newer "angler" kayaks that come with all the bells and whistles...the one I dream of one day owning.
As for species, you really aren't limited here, check out Youtube, just search kayak fly fishing, there are dudes bringing in Blue Marlin...I envy them. Just make sure you have the right equipment for the species your after, the last thing you want to do is hook up on a 40" Striper and realize your net is in the back of your car.
When it comes to technique, you just need to learn the importance of balance. Casting from a kayak isn't extremely difficult but it is tough to learn. I tried practicing casting a few times while sitting (on stable land) before I went out which seemed to help me understand the mechanics better but then again, they really aren't too different since fly casting is mostly upper body. But you do need to understand the mechanics of how your motion will affect the balance of the kayak. Even more important is understanding that when you hook up on a fish, it will most likely pull your boat in whichever direction it decides to run, even if thats a sharp turn and run to your back right. Just make sure you maintain control and play the fish, don't let it play you. Another important thing to grasp is, the wind usually always wins, don't fight it, you'll just get tired. The last thing you need before hooking up on a big fish is to have your arms feeling like noodles. Positioning is key to technique as well, I like to position myself parallel with the bank or area I want to fish with the wind always at my back not only so I can drift down the area I'm focusing on but so my cast length can be helped out a bit too. This is where tides are important as well, knowing the tide can also tell you which way you will drift. Simply put, do your research before every outing, check tides, weather, and local fishing reports.
Hopefully this has been helpful to whomever decides to read it, feel free to add in your own comments, ideas, and opinions as well. I hope, as I learn more, that I can update or revisit this subject later on!
Tight Lines...Morgan
So, I'll start out with the obvious, kayak fly fishing is MOSTLY a saltwater deal. The guys and I in college did spend a lot of time floating the Breeches on tubes and even kayaks. I don't see why you couldn't do so (in a kayak) with your rod and a pack. Or even hop into a kayak at a nice bass pond to reach that section of reeds on the other side that night after night you hear bucketmouth-sized bass whomp on some frogs. Its all possible, but I'm going to focus primarily on the saltwater aspect.
While out on the water and even after the fact, I recognized my lack of preparation and proper equipment*. I think the most important piece of equipment you could have with you (other than the obvious...kayak, rod, reel, flies, polarized sunglasses) is a rod holder. Let me tell you, it is so hard to try and hold on to your rod while paddling or vise versa! So on that note, I'd also suggest investing in a paddle holder or even just simply making one. I'm a frugal person myself, ask my wife, I think it is very important to do your research before a purchase. I also have a lot of respect for people that do a simple Google search and find out a way to make something yourself. I'll add some posts about DIY (do it yourself) stuff in the future. As a matter of fact, heres a treat since its the giving season... http://www.mademan.com/mm/make-kayak-paddle-holder.html When it comes to rod holders, they are much easier to purchase than make, and really, you can find a nice holder for a good price. Bass Pro has an awesome selection. They are easy to mount and really get the job done. Some other things you may want to bring with you include a net, cooler, and a compact pack (that also has room for all your necessities (flies, clippers, etc.). I honestly only had my phone, boaters license, life vest, rod, paddle, and pack with me...didn't think this through. Don't forget your life vest, I can't emphasize enough how important safety is, especially on a little floating boat that seems to have an inner goal of rocking you off. A lot of kayaks now have storage areas built into the hull, great for filling with ice to hold your fish and a few cold drinks. If catch and release is the name of your game, that storage area becomes even more handy and is great for packs, bags, and extra equipment. If you don't have a kayak holder, I've heard of people using milk crates or just plain tackle bags that can be strapped down with bungee cords (another necessity). Some other optional stuff, depending on your target species and geological location, include and are not limited to, a gaff, outriggers, duct tape, an anchor, sunblock, a hat, and a larger rod holder for more than one rod.
*Note: This section is written assuming you don't have one of the newer "angler" kayaks that come with all the bells and whistles...the one I dream of one day owning.
As for species, you really aren't limited here, check out Youtube, just search kayak fly fishing, there are dudes bringing in Blue Marlin...I envy them. Just make sure you have the right equipment for the species your after, the last thing you want to do is hook up on a 40" Striper and realize your net is in the back of your car.
When it comes to technique, you just need to learn the importance of balance. Casting from a kayak isn't extremely difficult but it is tough to learn. I tried practicing casting a few times while sitting (on stable land) before I went out which seemed to help me understand the mechanics better but then again, they really aren't too different since fly casting is mostly upper body. But you do need to understand the mechanics of how your motion will affect the balance of the kayak. Even more important is understanding that when you hook up on a fish, it will most likely pull your boat in whichever direction it decides to run, even if thats a sharp turn and run to your back right. Just make sure you maintain control and play the fish, don't let it play you. Another important thing to grasp is, the wind usually always wins, don't fight it, you'll just get tired. The last thing you need before hooking up on a big fish is to have your arms feeling like noodles. Positioning is key to technique as well, I like to position myself parallel with the bank or area I want to fish with the wind always at my back not only so I can drift down the area I'm focusing on but so my cast length can be helped out a bit too. This is where tides are important as well, knowing the tide can also tell you which way you will drift. Simply put, do your research before every outing, check tides, weather, and local fishing reports.
Hopefully this has been helpful to whomever decides to read it, feel free to add in your own comments, ideas, and opinions as well. I hope, as I learn more, that I can update or revisit this subject later on!
Tight Lines...Morgan
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